Monolithos Castle, Kritinia and Fourni: a day on the wild west coast by ATV

Most visitors never get past Ancient Kamiros. Keep going and the west coast turns into the most scenic riding on Rhodes: an empty road between the sea and pine-covered hills, two castles and a beach that feels like the end of the world. This is a long day — about 180 km from Rhodes town and back, all on asphalt — so start early and take the ATV: wide seat, automatic, no fatigue. Distances and times are approximate.

08:00 – Leave town, coffee in Kritinia (about 50 km)

Take the west-coast road past the airport and Kamiros. The village of Kritinia sits above the sea; park in the square and have a coffee with the view before the castle.

09:30 – Kritinia Castle

A 15th-century Knights' fortress on a hill right above the coast, 5 minutes from the village. Free, usually empty, and the view over Alimia and Chalki islands is one of the best on Rhodes. Park at the small car park below and walk up in 10 minutes.

10:30 – Kameiros Skala

The tiny harbour where the Chalki ferry leaves has three fish tavernas on the water. Too early for lunch? Book a table for the way back and carry on.

11:30 – Siana and Monolithos (about 20 km)

The road climbs through pine forest to Siana, famous for honey and souma (the local grape spirit — buy a bottle, taste it in the evening). Ten minutes later you reach Monolithos village and, just beyond, the castle: a 236-metre rock with a chapel and the ruins of the Knights' fort on top. Park at the viewpoint car park and climb the steps. Go midday for the light on the sea; sunset is spectacular but leaves you a long ride home in the dark.

13:00 – Fourni beach

From the castle the road winds down 5 km to Fourni: a long pebble-and-sand beach with a taverna, caves at the far end and almost nobody. Swim, eat, nap. This is the reward.

15:30 – Back along the coast

Return the same way; the afternoon light on the west coast is golden and the road is yours. Dinner at Kameiros Skala if you booked, otherwise Rhodes town by about 18:30.

Practical

• Fuel up in Rhodes town or Soroni before leaving; stations are sparse past Kritinia. The ATV's range is more than enough for the loop.
• Wind: the west coast is breezier than the east — another reason the stable 650cc ATV is the right tool here. First time on a quad? Read our driving tips.
• Shorter version: the west loop to Kamiros stops where this one starts.
• Want to go further south? Prasonisi is another 40 km from Monolithos — better as its own day.